I sat on the little silver-painted stool in the middle of the room, having agreed to a cleansing by Francisco, the herbatero (Maya shaman)

A white pillar candle burned on a green wooden table surrounded by a few herbs and a plastic bottle with a bright green liquid in it.

Puerto Vallerta. There is a thing. A thing called a Nagual. It is an Indian tribe, but it is also a witch doctor. A brujo. I met a man named Eduardo. He grew up in the mountains around Puerto Vallerta and was the oldest boy in a family with a father who was frequently absent. The Nagual can shapeshift. It has been seen on the roadside as an animal half-horse/half-dog, huge and terrifying. I sat in my kitchen a day before my scheduled flight to Mexico after receiving a message

"Teach me about the goddess Xtabay (esh-ta-bay)." We were riding on a taxi-bike with Jose, our Maya tour guide and valiant peddler. There were two of us riding, Maria and I, and I know Jose got his workout for the day as he transported us down jungle paths, past sacred trees, Maya bees, and to the base of the tallest pyramid in Mexico. "Esh-ta-by " he corrected my pronunciation. (My spelling here, Xtabay, is correct. But the way I said it was a bit off.) "Xtabay is a bad god

As seen in the Washington Post Cancun addition, published by Laura LaBrie I just got back from spending a month on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. It was a great trip and I found myself delving into some interesting things while I was there. A race of tiny people called Aluxob (the singular is Alux) live in the jungles and cenotes of the Yucatan. You assume I am speaking of ancient folklore? I am not so sure... I had some personal experiences with one about 4 years ago in my hom

We were escorted by butterflies. Butterflies in The Jungle Video It was a long ride deep into the jungle down a road that eventually turned to clay. Occasionally we stopped to allow the bright blue and black and yellow and white butterflies to stop their drinking in the puddles and fly up into a cloud like so many fairies. (see the video link above) When it was safe for us to pass without running over thirsty winged-creatures, they thanked us by leading the way deeper into th

Two trees always grow together here in the jungles of Mexico. Chechen and Chaca. One is toxic and the other is healing. Yesterday, I got the sap of the chechen (also known as black poisonwood) on my hand and within a few minutes I was extremely uncomfortable. My skin was red and burning and itching and swelling very quickly. The sap of the chechen tree is extremely toxic and, if left untreated, can cause first and second degree burns, blisters, and a nasty rash that itches so

Cenote Ik Kil is 150 feet deep, or so they say. It is one of the thousands of entrances to the vast underwater cave system that covers the Yucatan Peninsula. Its waters, though crystal clear, are dark as night because of its depth. This past week, I chose not to swim in its cool waters. I have been swimming there before, but I admit with some fear. Now, I may have my answer as to why I am afraid. My friend, Maria, and I ventured deep into the Yucatan to go story hunting. Ther

Its called a naranjito (pronounced nar an hee toe). It's a wild fruit that was growing in Anthony's back yard. You split it in half and squeeze the juice into a cup of cold water, strain and drink it. Everyone loves it and it has a lovely orange taste. We met Anthony--Roldolfo Anthony--on a walk out of town and up the hill that over looks all the islands. He called us into his yard after explaining to us about the very dangerous sleeping snakes that live in the area. He said